What? Public library with 3D printers for public use?
UPDATED 6/15: Comment, criticize my build. But be nice I’m new!
- Thread starter Drubieg
- Start date
Drubieg
10 W
What is meant by pitch again?
That's really nice of you, I might have to take you up on it. Right now all the cells are inside individual "scooter" packs that are hard plastic cased. And I've got 3 packs in each orange box. They are about 13"x4x3 each. You think Id need take them out of their hard cases to save space?
Hummina Shadeeba
10 MW
The Marin city and Tiburon library both have Makers Spaces with printers and also laser cutters. There’s also Noisebridge in the mission with lots of different kinds of tools n printers
These are pla filament below and maybe like $7 each in material. They’re just testers for fit and then will try to print polycarbonate with carbon in it. Or on YouTube I see it’s not worth trying to print these high temp finicky materials and instead just add carbon or something with epoxy. I might do a layer inside of NOT carbon as it’s conductive but Kevlar (good safety feature)
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Hummina Shadeeba
10 MW
Pitch being distance between pins
I dont know about ur battery and what would fit. I imagine ideal would be one case that clamps on ur down tube. If u design it I’ll print it. Yea you’d probably want to open the packs u have and reorient and likely reweld or maybe use copper n magnets. There’s some great deals on lifepo4 cells (gotion) someone on the forum is selling a buck each n he lives like an hour and a half north. Safe chemistry and big cells to make assembly easy.
I know u already have an esc but with a vesc it’ll be easy to adjust things and fit on the side of the box easier. The other holes are a charge port “dc jack” and loopkey with qs8 anti spark plug to turn on and off. Will be waterproof
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DanGT86
100 kW
The increased noise with the larger rear sprocket is to be expected.
The higher the gear ratio gets the more chain speed you have per road speed.
You also get higher chain speed than before at lower speeds where the wind is not covering the chain noise.
The higher the gear ratio gets the more chain speed you have per road speed.
You also get higher chain speed than before at lower speeds where the wind is not covering the chain noise.
BiggKidd
100 W
Only time I really hear chain noise on a reasonably sized sprocket is when something / anything is slightly out of alignment. If you have one the of many that just will not stay 100% true thicker lube will help quieten the noise.
PaPaSteve
10 kW
Alignment could be the issue.
or
New large sprocket doesn't appear to have side taper on the teeth nor do the teeth look to be de-burred.
(compare tooth profile between motor and new big)
I've made sprockets with laser and waterjet and then tapered the teeth by hand with a sander.
or
New large sprocket doesn't appear to have side taper on the teeth nor do the teeth look to be de-burred.
(compare tooth profile between motor and new big)
I've made sprockets with laser and waterjet and then tapered the teeth by hand with a sander.
Hummina Shadeeba
10 MW
The tiny sprocket on the motor is probably the largest noise source as well as where greatest inefficiency and vibration is from.
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DanGT86
100 kW
there are many causes of noise as mentioned above. My point was that the overall ratio increase as a result of the larger rear sprocket will make everything louder.
In other words even if the rear sprocket was silent the chain is still going faster per mph of wheel speed so the noise even from the front sprocket would be louder and easier to hear at lower speeds than before.
Think of it in links per minute at any given road speed.
Id always rather have noise than torture the motor with too little reduction. The big rear sprocket is still the best choice here.
In other words even if the rear sprocket was silent the chain is still going faster per mph of wheel speed so the noise even from the front sprocket would be louder and easier to hear at lower speeds than before.
Think of it in links per minute at any given road speed.
Id always rather have noise than torture the motor with too little reduction. The big rear sprocket is still the best choice here.
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Drubieg
10 W
Ur setup looks super clean. I'm not really trying to re work my cells at this point but I'll probably try to distribute the packs. One day I'll do a more professional build but for now I'm garage rat
Drubieg
10 W
I think alignment is the major issue... I didn't do anymore than eyeball it.
I also thought I had ordered the beveled tooth sprocket but I guess not. You guys think beveling the teeth myself is worth it? I'll at least deburr
I also thought I had ordered the beveled tooth sprocket but I guess not. You guys think beveling the teeth myself is worth it? I'll at least deburr
DanGT86
100 kW
Try a straight edge for alignment. With large sprockets you can usually align it surprisingly close by eye like aiming a gun.
I would always deburr because I am machinist and in school we failed any project with a single burr. A heavy bevel/deburr couldn't hurt if you are willing to take the time.
The bevel is more critical on the ends of the teeth. Normally the bevel disappears by the time you get to the root.
I would always deburr because I am machinist and in school we failed any project with a single burr. A heavy bevel/deburr couldn't hurt if you are willing to take the time.
The bevel is more critical on the ends of the teeth. Normally the bevel disappears by the time you get to the root.
Drubieg
10 W
Thanks I will do that. Makes sense being a machinist! I also should've known better as a hobby knife maker.... Obviously burrs on edges are a no no
PaPaSteve
10 kW
Always applaud and appreciate nice work.
The orange boxes look good and remind me of adventure style motorcycles.
For my solar race bike the battery box was .032" thick sheet aluminum pop riveted together.
Current bike is very minimum attachment . . . it doesn't have a box per se.
It's a shrink wrapped 52V battery from Luna that's held in place with simple bandsaw cut plastic brackets, aluminum angle, double sided tape, some 2" wide pipe wrap tape and a couple extra wide 100 pound test zip ties.
The orange boxes look good and remind me of adventure style motorcycles.
For my solar race bike the battery box was .032" thick sheet aluminum pop riveted together.
Current bike is very minimum attachment . . . it doesn't have a box per se.
It's a shrink wrapped 52V battery from Luna that's held in place with simple bandsaw cut plastic brackets, aluminum angle, double sided tape, some 2" wide pipe wrap tape and a couple extra wide 100 pound test zip ties.
Drubieg
10 W
Drubieg
10 W
Well the wiring is still a rats nest, but I've changed a few things on this bike recently...
Drubieg
10 W
I took the suggestions into account from all of you, and changed the battery location. The weight on the rear was a problem keeping the front end down. I tried an idler sprocket for chain engagement, but couldn't get the alignment right. There was a lot of noise and vibration. Then I removed the idler, and rode the bike for a week. Was still having vibration issues and some rubbing of the chain on the frame. I just yesterday decided to mount the motor under the bike instead of within the triangle... And wow what a difference! It runs so much smoother now. I suspect because the chain is now a bit longer? The bike also seems much faster off the start... Not sure why.
This bike is far from being totally done, I imagine it will be a constant work in progress. I've experienced the harshness of bumps on the road and am now thinking I might in fact get some front suspension. Any suggestions on that would be appreciated!
Andrew
This bike is far from being totally done, I imagine it will be a constant work in progress. I've experienced the harshness of bumps on the road and am now thinking I might in fact get some front suspension. Any suggestions on that would be appreciated!
Andrew
Drubieg
10 W
I also beveled and dwburred the teeth on the rear sprocket
ZeroEm
10 MW
Bet it would be faster, holding the front end down. When you get it faster then suspension becomes more important. Don't think any of us get done, just start a new project.
PaPaSteve
10 kW
Applauding your persistence and creativity. 
Drubieg
10 W
Thanks PaPaSteve!Applauding your persistence and creativity.
What size is the headset? Can it accept a quality suspension fork?
In addition to suspension (coping with higher speeds) you probably should upgrade the braking system.
At that point, I'd be looking into a frame that has the features to better handle higher speeds (dimensions, geometry, components, etc.)
Drubieg
10 W
Yea I went through that dilemma in my head... Thinking "Is it even worth it with this frame?" If I'm gonna do upgrades like that then I may as well change the whole thing lol. I may just stick with what I've got for awhile and just enjoy the bike. I'm not maxing speed anyways. Maybe a year down the line I'll do my second build with all the good stuff!
Drubieg
10 W
I don't know the headset size off hand, but you think something not too cheap from AliExpress would be sufficient? I'm doing city riding on basically the same route everyday
